“Toto, I’ve a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore.” Just as Dorothy realized she had left the familiar surroundings of Kansas for the land of Oz, I had the feeling I was not in the land of western Turkey that I was familiar with as I wound my way into eastern Turkey and the province of Şanlıurfa (shawn-lee-orf-ah). Turkey has been inhabited by many diverse peoples and empires over the centuries, which is why there is no “one size fits all” way to describe this land and its people. Eastern Turkey is no exception as its distinctive landscape, architecture, food, and culture call to the curious traveler.

Şanlıurfa, situated 50 miles from the Euphrates River in the Fertile Crescent, is one of eastern Turkey’s great cities. Before 1984 the city was simply known as “Urfa” (orf-ah) and it has seen its fair share of kingdoms and empires over the centuries. Today the province of Şanlıurfa borders the country of Syria and is a beautiful mix of Turkish, Kurdish, Armenian, and Arab cultures.

The mix of history and legend is palpable as you wander the city’s streets. Urfa is known for being the city of prophets, most notably for being the possible birthplace of Abraham. Some archeologists claim that Ur of the Chaldeans is located in present-day Şanlıurfa. (Others claim that Ur of the Chaldeans is in modern-day Iraq. I personally think Şanlıurfa is the location of Ur because of its close proximity to Harran.) But I digress. Let’s get back to history and legend. Archeologists and historians say that it is within the realm of possibility that Abraham was born in modern-day Şanlıurfa and legend expounds on this possibility.

A mosque has been built around the cave where legend says Abraham was born.

The legend goes that Abraham was born in a cave near present day Mevlid-i Halil Mosque because Abraham’s mom was hiding her child from evil King Nimrod. He thought a child was to be born that would demolish his kingdom so he gave an order for all children to be killed. Abraham’s mom hid him in the cave and nursed him there. The legend also says that a gazelle came every day and nursed him and that Abraham stayed in the cave until he was 15 years old.

This was not the last confrontation between Abraham and King Nimrod. The legend continues with Kind Nimrod becoming angry with Abraham and ordering that he be burned. However, Allah turned the fire meant to consume Abraham into water and the wood into fish. Today this place is known as Balıklı Göl, or Fish Lake. The fish in the water are considered holy and are not to be eaten.

The city itself is very well manicured and a delight to wander through. The castle on the hill has a magnificent view of the city and I would recommend drinking a cup of tea while you rest from the exertion of climbing the many stairs to the top. And of course you must try the Urfa kebab made with isot biberi, a dried pepper that is native to the region.

Shopping in covered bazaars is always a treat in Turkey. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to do a little rug shopping. The prices of the rugs in Urfa are some of the best I have seen anywhere and the designs are beautiful. I’m very glad to now have a kilim (a type of rug with a flat weave; you can read more about rugs here) from Urfa displayed in my home.

Şanlıurfa: The City of Abraham's Birth

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