What Does It Mean to Be From Adana?

 
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What does it mean to be from Adana? 

Living in Adana for just over a year now, I am no expert at what is means to be “Adanalı” (meaning “one who is from Adana). However, thanks to my neighbors and my experiences of the past year, I have many reasons to boast about the culture of Adana. Every city has a reputation. Adana has many. 

1) Adana, though one of the most developed cities in Turkey, is known for being “a big village”.

Adana is one of the most populated provinces of Turkey with many developing cities. It also dominates the agricultural production of the country. It is big and yet it does not feel as such. It can be crowded and busy but has an at home feeling about it. 

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From the first day that I moved into my apartment I noticed there was something different. Every neighbor I met offered to help me or invited me over for coffee, and continues to do so. Many neighbors have brought me food. This ends up being somewhat of a plate trading game, for when someone bring you food on a plate you do not give the plate back empty but fill it with something for your neighbor. 

As I was talking to a neighbor about her experience of being from Adana, she did not let me leave without handing me a bag of carrots that were picked that day from one of the surrounding towns. This is the same grandma who opened her door for me late at night, inviting me in and sending her son out to help when I locked my keys in the apartment.

Most people have a home in a village outside one of the main cities that belongs to their family. They gather there throughout the year to get away from the city, spend time together and to garden. They also bring their gardening back into the city.  In the apartment I live in every inch of the shared outside space is divided up into mini gardening areas. Every day I look outside to neighbors tending their tomatoes, peppers, lemons, ex. It is not a rare occurrence to look outside my balcony and be invited into what seems to be the whole neighborhood gathered over a cup of tea.

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The people of Turkey in general, but in Adana specifically, value family, friendship, hospitality, helping and being a good neighbor. I can easily say that I have experienced the best of the big village culture in my mahalle (neighborhood).

2) Adana is known for being hot, hot and sticky.

Prior to living in Adana I spent a couple of years in Istanbul. When I told local friends where I was moving they made sure that I knew I was moving to the “armpit” of Turkey.

The summers are hot and humid but in my opinion the weather is perfect for a day out and about most of the year.

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Locals love going on walks, grilling out at the park and simply sitting outside. There is something about the heat that makes the people sweet. As another neighbor told me, “The people are as warm as the weather is hot”. They value having this warm culture which in Turkish is known as being sıcakkanlı (literally, warm-blooded).

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3) Adana is known for its gastronomy, most important of all the “Adana Kebab.”

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Minced lamb meat loaded with spices grilled to serve with freshly baked bread, bottomless salad and unimaginable delicious dips washed down with spicy turnip and carrot juice--what more could one want??? 

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While Adana is known for meat, do not fret if you are not a meat lover. Adana has the best produce and local markets I have seen in the country. Within walking distance from just about everywhere, there is either a covered area or a street that miraculously turns into a lively “pazar” every week bearing the best fruits, vegetable and produce the season has to offer. 

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Nevertheless, it is not simply the food, desserts or drinks that the locals adore but the activity of partaking in these together. They gather to grill out, go out together for dessert and daily have one another over for coffee. Yes, they love food, and most drink over five cups of tea a day, but it is not just about the food and drinks. As a neighbor told me, “to be Adanalı is to share one’s bread.”

The people in Adana value enjoying the simple things of life and the extraordinary food together.

Being Adanalı can be described in many ways, but the first and foremost of these is for one to be a warm-blooded, food loving, good neighbor. 

To our friends in the West, keep looking East!



Photography By: Hannah Greer, Serena Swords, Leslie Connors, and Alison Bickel


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Rebekah Harper

Rebekah loves claiming Birmingham, Alabama as her hometown, though she has learned that home can be anywhere. With half of her life spent in North Africa and Europe and the other half on the West Coast (USA) it can be said that she has grown adept at fitting in everywhere but belonging to nowhere. However, over the past couple of years Turkey has captivated her attention. She loves the adventure of exploring new places but even more so the people and stories she has come to cherish along the way.