Sweets Under the Tree - Ağaçaltı Tatlıcısı

The oil immediately begins to sizzle and bubble as the dough is squeezed out of a large press into a vat of boiling oil. The long singular line of dough is swirled into a spiral shape and fried until golden brown. With two long metal sticks, the web of dough is transferred from the frying oil and dunked into sugar water. After being submerged for a few seconds it is placed in a large rectangular baking pan and cut into small pieces.

This is Ağaçaltı Tatlıcısı, or the Sweets Guy Under the Tree, a stall on the side of the bustling Karataş Boulevard (D815). Ağaçaltı makes only one thing--halka tatlısı, a powerfully sweet and crunchy dessert similar to a churro. The stall began making these desserts in 1930 by the current owner's father. Until recently these proprietors of sugary manna had no official name. They were simply known as the Sweets Guy Under the Tree. After decades, the nickname stuck and became the official name of their business.

When the city decided to widen Karataş Boulevard, the tree was cut down to create space for the enlarged roadway. Although the sweets stall was moved back several meters (and was no longer under a tree), the family tradition of making the delightful dessert continues on. They also have a food truck, or more appropriately a dessert truck, that travels for events. A framed picture behind the counter boasts of the numerous celebrities and politicians who have stopped by to enjoy a sweet treat; however, it remains a humble spot for the everyday working person to come by on their lunch break or after work for a quick bite.

We didn’t want to miss out on one of Adana’s finest dessert stalls, so we went for a taste. With the first mouthful, there was no mistaking this was a dessert. There is so much sugar water soaked into the dough it came dripping out when I took a bite. Thankfully, the halka tatlısı is served in a plastic sandwich bag that catches the sweet nectar like an ice cream cone.

After my somewhat messy first bite, I looked around and noticed a proper posture for eating it: legs straight and back bent forward at the hips with face and mouth directly over the dessert when going in for a bite. This way you avoid any sugary sprinklage waterfalling down onto your shoes or clothes.

The sweetness can be a little shocking at first if, like myself, you don't have a big sweet tooth. However, after a few more bites there was a sweet familiarity that I really enjoyed. One and a half pieces later I realized it tasted as if a box of fruit loops and funnel cake had gotten together and had a baby. It had the sweetness of fruit loops with the crunch and doughy flavor of funnel cake you would find at any carnival. But you don’t have to wait for a carnival or a fair for this treat, it sits on the side of the road for all to come and taste its sweet treat under a tree.