Guardian of Xanthos
Sometimes it is difficult to appreciate something until you meet someone else who appreciates it. Have you ever regarded, say, a piece of art with only a passing interest, then met someone who was obsessed with that piece of art? As they explain to you the intricacies of the work, the toiling efforts of the artist, and its value, your interest slowly starts to grow. Their enthusiasm and appreciation begin to be matched with an enthusiasm and appreciation of your own, and before you know it your horizons have broadened ever so slightly.
Well that was my experience as we explored the ancient city of Xanthos. While I started out with a less than enthusiastic attitude towards our visit, now that ancient city stands out in my memory more than any of the others we saw in the region. Here’s why.
When we pulled up in mid-afternoon on a hot July day I confess my heart sank to see there was no shade. It had already been a long day, and I started to think as I looked around the ruins, “what does this ancient city have that I haven’t already seen?” Admittedly, the theatre was in pretty good shape, and there was a nice view of the Mediterranean from the hillside the city was located on. My interest grew a little as I saw the burial monuments on top of their meters high pillars. “Okay,” I thought, “that’s something I haven’t seen before.”
This was my view of the city from a shady spot in the parking lot. I thought, “Nope, I want to stay right here!”
But the real turning point for me was when we met a Xanthos enthusiast in the form of a slight, older gentleman sitting quietly at the base of the most impressive burial column. Sitting in one of the only locations that afforded shade from the sun, he looked up at us as we greeted him, and began to talk.
At first it was difficult to make out what he was saying. His age and accent made his words seem jumbled at first, but as we listened, we started to understand that he was telling us about this city. He introduced himself as Durmuş (Durmush). It turns out he had been part of the excavation team that worked on Xanthos. Now he had the self-appointed role of walking tourists around the site and explaining to them what they were seeing. Of course we took him up on his offer to show us around. Beaming, he told us that he knew five languages! He chattered away about the details of the city’s ancient life.
He pointed out the clay pipes that comprised their water system. He pointed out stones inscribed with memorial writings. He pointed out the public baths that included shower cabins. With special excitement he pointed out a public swimming pool, that included a shallower children’s pool. One of my favorite moments was when he stopped, pointed to a rock on the ground, and grinned as he told me to pick it up to see what was underneath. I moved the rock aside to reveal a small, beautifully preserved portion of a mosaic. He explained that the area we were walking on was completely covered with mosaics that had been preserved in dirt and cloth. While he talked I could feel my interest and sympathy for this ancient city growing. His smile was priceless as he watched our understanding and appreciation grow.
As we wrapped up our tour he leaned over, picked up an empty can, and put it in his pocket. He explained to us that he comes to the site early every morning and picks up trash left by loiterers overnight. With sadness he told us he was afraid that younger generations don’t appreciate or care for the significance of such sites any more. Knowing that a good deal of his life was wrapped up in the excavation and preservation of this city, I felt sad for him. Still, he was doing his part—getting up early each morning, picking up trash, seeking to tell visitors about the city underneath all the ruins.
While the burial columns, mosaics, and history of the city of Xanthos were enough to raise my appreciation of this site, the main thing I will remember and appreciate is Durmuş—faithful caretaker and Guardian of Xanthos.
To our Friends in the West, keep looking East!
Ginny Lou Henley
Ginny Lou is a co-founder of West2East. Originally from Alabama, Ginny Lou has called Turkey home for the past nine years. To read more about her, click here.